mardi 6 mars 2012

Roscoff, gateway to the South?



We must have come through this gateway dozens of times over the years since we bought this house and even before. The Brittany Ferries vessels Quiberon, Bretagne, Armorique and several more have transported us from Plymouth to France Finisterre and deposited us at the ferryport called Bloscon half a kilometer from Roscoff itself. If we were on holiday or in a hurry, we simply cleared Customs/Immigration ( usually by just driving past the manned gateway, nothing like the kerfuffle to get into Britain) turned left at the exit and headed south like swallows towards our small piece of paradise.It was usually in the morning having crossed the Channel during the night. Sometimes we would stop at the terminal for the first croissant of the trip and a cup of real French coffee to wake us up for the eight hour drive to La Mort Limouzin. Sometimes we`d just go but I never fail to feel a lift of my spirits when we arrive in Roscoff, perhaps that is why the place has a hold of my affections.
                                                                                   
  Mind you, the ferry  firm itself has an interesting history. Years ago when Roscoff was a sleepy fishing village, the local market gardeners sold their artichokes, yellow onions  and cabbages in the Paris market. Roads then not being so good, some local entrepreneur realised that England was just as near and began using the local fishing vessels to take fresh veg to Britain. Onions were the veg most appreciated and so the story of Johnny Onions began. The local onion crop was peddled all over coastal Britain tied to the handle-bars of decrepit cycles, the impression being given that Johnny had cycled all the way from France with strings of onions on his bike. In fact, the trade was highly organised with teams of salesmen delivered by old vans to British centres. Later, cargo vessels were chartered to deliver increasing loads of veg to go by train to Covent Garden. Holiday makers asked if perhaps their cars could be transshipped, an old RO RO ferry was bought and the rest is history. Veg still goes but the real profit is in the vehicle cross-channel tourist  trade.
  The town also has had a turbulent past. It has served as a base for corsairs preying on English shipping Of course, fair`s fair and in 1375 the harbour was destroyed by the Earl of Arundel. Defences have been put in place over the years probably with some success though the last thing the Roscoff citizens want nowadays is to discourage their British clients, who have brought some prosperity to the town. The Germans during the Occupation were not so hospitable, and built this casserne which has since been demolished, not an easy task I should imagine.

  What you see today is a charming little town and fishing port, narrow granite streets and a lace-work church spire. Well worth stopping to visit before starting your drive to the South!
  And that`s not to mention the sandy beaches and little off-shore islands. Perhaps I`ll return to this theme another time.
 

  Bye for now got to change the oil and filter on the car.

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